Spreading-Cutting

SPREADING & CUTTING VINTAGE SELVAGE FABRICS

The information contained herein is provided for customers not familiar with spreading and cutting narrow width selvage fabrics. While many spreading and cutting techniques can be utilized for spreading and cutting narrow width selvage fabrics, there are a few techniques that have been developed that may prove helpful.

FACE UP SINGLE PLY SPREADING

Traditionally, narrow width selvage fabrics have been spread using the face-up technique in which complete garments are cut from a single ply in very close proximity to one another. While this technique is still in wide use today it may not provide the best utilization of fabric. Fabric is spread the length of the marker face up and cut–off at the end of the desired spread length. The spreading carriage is returned to the starting position and a second ply is spread again face up. This method is repeated until the desired number of plies is achieved. The narrow width fabric must be checked during spreading to assure that the selvages are even and matched on both sides. The paper pattern marker is spread onto the top of the fabric plies. The marker edge is checked for alignment with the selvage, as the selvage is part of the garment panel, on the lead side and then the opposite side. If the alignment of the edge of the marker and the fabric spread are not in agreement an adjustment for fabric width must be made at this time. Adjusting the width of the paper pattern is a simple process whereby the paper is split down the middle between the panels the length of the paper (See Blue Line) on the attached illustrations. After splitting the paper pattern and matching the out
seam sided to the selvage the paper pattern may be secured to the top ply of the spread. The fabric panels are then cut by normal means.

Single-Ply face-up spreading techniques can be utilized to spread and cut narrow width fabrics using the selvage as indicated above. Common panels can be utilized for multiple sizes as shown in the Pair back spreading method such as: Waist bands, Watch Pocket and Fly, depending on design. As previously indicated the paper pattern may be cut down the center (Blue) line in order to adjust for differences in width from one spread to another. Differences in width must be adjusted to maintain the outseams on the selvage edge.

 

PAIR BACK SPREADING

Pair Back or Face to Face spreading is more common place due to the greater efficiency of this method. The common spreading of this method involves utilizing a roll of fabric spread back and forth without cutting the fabric along the length of the marker until the roll length is used up. Another roll is started at the nearest section completed with the overlapping fabric cut away to be used for re-cuts or belt hangers, however with narrow width selvage it is slightly different. Generally a single roll or partial roll will be
used for completing a spread, as the spreads of narrow width selvage tend to be much shorter than conventional spreading due to smaller numbers of garments and reduced amount of width variation requiring adjustment. Fabric is spread insuring the selvages are even and match on both sides until full completed pair section are spread. The paper pattern is aligned on the lead selvage side and the opposite side checked for alignment. Width adjustment is made in the same manner as with Face Up Single Ply Spreading by splitting the paper pattern and aligning the edge to the selvages. Some adjustments to pattern pieces may be
necessary and beneficial to utilization when using the Pair Back Spreading method. When 2 or more sizes are in the same section some single parts may be stacked for better utilization. Such parts may include Waistbands and Fly fronts. Some examples are shown in the attached illustrations. For any additional information concerning Cone Vintage Selvage Fabrics contact your Cone Denim representative.

 

The illustration above represents a 2 pair short section, which makes use of stacked multiple sized waistbands and other parts to maximize utilization and efficiency on narrow width fabrics with pair back spreading. This marker method will also work on larger sections to increase utilization and yield. The paper pattern may be cut down the center (Blue) line in order to adjust for differences in width from one spread to another. Differences in width must be adjusted to maintain the outseams on the selvage edge.